Kokanee, Wild Turkeys, And a Spiral Highway

My hope that the air conditioner in our room last night would be able to overcome the heat of the day was not to be realized. If it wasn't the weakest A/C unit I have ever seen, it was in the top two. At 11:00 p.m. it was cooler outside than it was in the room and it didn't get any better during the night.

Despite the fact that it was hot yesterday and it didn't seem like the weather would change, we were awoken by two loud thunder crashes. Along with the thunder and lightning, it began to rain heavily. The rain didn't last too long, however, and when we got up in the morning the only evidence that remained were a few small puddles in the parking lot. I hope that the rain helped the firefighters in the area gain ground on the forest fires around Creston.

We began our day with a quick stop at Tim Horton's, the only coffee shop we could find in Creston. After an Ice Cap we headed toward the border. My GPS showed the way to the highway, and on the way out of town we came upon the Columbia Brewing Company, brewers of that popular Canadian beer, Kokanee. After taking some photos we resumed our ride to the border.

Columbia Brewing Company, home of Kokanee beer



Columbia Brewing Company, Creston, BC

Crossing was quite quick and easy. After showing my passport and telling the Customs Officer my license number and vouching for the fact that I had no tobacco or alcohol with me, I was allowed entry into the US of A, land of the free and home of the brave.

About ten miles south of the border I saw three wild turkeys on the side of the road. I hadn't seen wild turkeys for several years and when I first saw them I thought they were turkey buzzards. Wild turkeys are quite a handsome bird, and apparently, according to people who hunt them, they are very intelligent birds, unlike their domesticated cousins which are exceedingly stupid.

In one of the more unusual incidents that have happened on this trip we saw a car which was being driven very slowly partly on the highway shoulder, being passed by a semi. Almost immediately the driver, an older woman made a very leisurely U-turn across the 60 mph highway. Fortunately, I slowed down enough to allow her to make her turn without being T-boned which surely would have happened should there have been a car or truck there instead of a motorcycle. I sometimes wonder how people who do such stupid things live is along as they do.

I noticed that the horses that I saw in this part of the country are all light coloured. There seemed to be more palominos, dappled greys, and light brown coloured horses. Since this part of Idaho happens to have a reputation as a haven for Aryan Nation white supremacists, perhaps it is not too surprising that their horses are light coloured as well. Just saying.

This part of Idaho has Christmas tree farms as well and many of them are growing beautiful blue spruce trees. The main company is called 'Trees R Us, Inc.' The trees are well manicured and I'm certain that at Christmas time those trees will fetch a good premium.

After a quick stop for gas north of Bonner's Ferry, we carried on through that town to Sandpoint where we stopped at Walmart to pick up several bottles of PowerAid to replenish the electrolytes that we lose in the heat of the day. We stopped for coffee in Hayden, a suburb just north of Couer d'Alene before riding on south.  Lake Couer d'Alene is one of the larger lakes in the western US and Highway 95 crosses if on a long bridge which is built on pilings so the highway is only a few metres above the water. It is unusual to be able to do such a long ride across a lake and to enjoy the views on both sides of the bridge.

The landscape gradually changes from evergreen forest to open rolling grassland which has been turned into grain farms.  This time of year the colours are striking. They range from light brown to golden yellow, to light then dark green. In places a variety of different colours can be seen depending upon the crops which have been planted.

Idaho wheat fields

Idaho farmland browns, greens and yellows

The colours of Idaho

 

 The highway is an easy ride with long straight stretches and long sweeping curves. It is a pleasure to be on this highway on a motorcycle. South of the small village of Tensed we came across the a mini van There were already several cars stopped with someone entering the van which was lying on its side. Since the people there seemed to have the situation under control we rode through and continued south. It seemed strange that the van had gone off the road because there didn't seem to be anything that would have caused the van to have left the road. Our best guess is that the driver fell asleep. We hope the driver survived.

I have noticed that every town has fireworks stands and gun shops. I don't know what that signifies, other than that Idahoans like things that go 'Bang!'. In addition, this is an 'open carry' state where individuals can buy and carry a handgun without question as long as they carry it openly. In Idaho people who wish to conceal their handguns need a permit. In several trips through Idaho I have seen only one person carrying a handgun so even though they have the right to do so, most Idahoans are responsible enough not to carry unless they have a legitimate reason. I know that if I saw a person carrying a gun in any public place I would immediately leave it.

The temperature had risen so that when we were in Moscow, ID the bank display read 87F. The temperature seemed to hold until we arrived just north of Lewiston, ID. We pulled over to a viewpoint over Lewiston and the Clearwater River where we had the choice of returning to Highway 95 or taking the Old Spiral Highway which was opened in 1917. The road climbs, or descends, depending on your starting point, two thousand feet in just under eight miles. The road has sixty-four curves and some have said that this is the best motorcycle road in the western US. We certainly enjoyed the experience but with heavy Harley-Davidson motorcycles it is a casual ride. Fortunately we saw no 'squids' today, but I could help imagining what this road would be like to ride on one of my Norton Commandos. Apparently, the 1950s rock-and-roll hit 'Hot Rod Lincoln' was based on a race that took place on the Old Spiral Highway.

Lewiston, ID and the Clearwater River

Lewsiton, ID with the Old Spiral Highway in the foreground

Another view of the Old Spiral Highway

Clearwater River upstream from Lewiston, ID



As we descended we could feel the heat increase with every curve. By the time we crossed the Clearwater River the temperature had to be well over 100F. Riding with leathers in those temperatures id decidedly uncomfortable. Unfortunately, I made a wrong turn and to get back to the highway, but fortunately, we came upon the local Harley-Davidson dealership. At the entrance there was a cooler full of ice water, just what we needed. Stepping into the air conditioned interior was like stepping into heaven. However, the name of the dealership, Hell's Canyon Harley-Davidson, belies that fact.

A friendly H-D dealership

Jim in front of Hell's Canyon H-D, Lewiston, ID

 



The people in the dealership were quite friendly and when Jim asked about a place to stay two people recommended the Red Lion Inn. The Inn has an arrangement with the H-D dealership where travelers get a significant discount if they mention that the Harley people had recommended them. In our case the price of the room dropped from 128 dollars to eight-eight dollars, so that little stop at the dealership saved us forty dollars. Great deal.

After we settled in we went to the brew pub which is connected to the hotel. They serve a variety of beers and Jim had a Widmer's Lager while I enjoyed the Apocalypse IPA made by Ten Barrel Brewing in Bend, OR. And the burgers were the best. Unlike in Canada, you can choose how your burger is cooked. Jim and I went for the medium burger and they were delicious. And so far we haven't experienced the symptoms of e coli.

After putting in 385 kilometres today, our plan for tomorrow is to head south through the Salmon River and the Payette River Canyons. Both are fantastic rides both in terms of beautiful landscapes and great motorcycle roads. We are getting into the serious riding tomorrow and are looking forward to it.