When we planned this trip one of the goals that we had was to ride the Beartooth Pass between Montana and Wyoming. Sunday was that day and we were ready. We left Billings in our rear view mirrors and rode Highway 212 to Red Lodge, MT where we topped up our gas tanks for the climb to the summit of the pass.
From Red Lodge the highway began a gentle climb with sweeping curves. It was a really easy ride to begin. As we gained altitude, the scenery became more striking and the road became a series of switchbacks with outstanding views. It was hard not to stop at every pullout.
Switchbacks on the Beartooth Highway
One of the best viewpoints is Rocky Point where there are great views in three directions. In addition, there were dozens of chipmunks running around looking for handouts. In places it was difficult to avoid stepping on them.
Climbing the Beartooth Pass
Chipmunks at Rocky Point
As the highway climbed to the summit it rose above the tree line and the landscape opened up so that it was possible to see in all four directions. At this time in early August some small mountain flowers were in bloom. The growing season at this altitude is about three months, so these plants, have to get everything done in that short time. Consequently, they are small and hardy.
Near the summit of the Beartooth Pass
Alpine flowers
Alpine flowers
Alpine flowers
Near the summit we left Montana and entered Wyoming. After cresting a summit, it seemed that we had reached the top of the pass but it wasn't marked. My GPS read 10 926 feet. We stopped at a viewpoint where a woman was selling snacks and pop and she informed us that the real summit was a short distance further on. We stopped and I took photos of more spectacular scenery. The surrounding peaks and small lakes were inspiring. This is one place that I consider myself lucky to have seen.
Small lake near the Beartooth Summit
Arriving at the summit of Beartooth Pass
The summit was somewhat anticlimactic. There is a gravel road that climbs higher to a viewpoint, but the official summit is on the highway, at 10947 feet. We stopped for photos and met a couple from Chicago who were doing a motorcycle tour of the western US.
Garry at the Beartooth Summit
Big Red at the Beartooth Summit
Big Red & me at the Beartooth Summit
The ride downhill on the Wyoming side of the summit is not quite as spectacular as the ride up from Montana, but it is still quite amazing. Further on we stopped at 'The Top of the World' store. Garry bought two patches and after a short break we continued on our way.
The Top of the World store at 9400 feet elevation.
View to the west of the store
The highway is well built and a lot of fun to ride and it occasionally has these little jewels of scenery. One of them was a curved bridge which replaced an old bridge with stone abutments. It was quite picturesque as was the stream that cascaded under it. And it was the kind of place where H-D takes photos to advertise their motorcycles.
View to the west from the Beartooth Highway in Wyoming
Mountain stream
Mountain stream looking west
The old highway bridge with stone retaining wall
Small cascade
Downstream from the old bridge
Riders crossing the curved bridge
We had originally planned to ride to Cooke City, then through the northern part of Yellowstone Park, continuing on to Bozeman. But after our experience with room prices in Billings as well as advice from one of the people at the Top of the World store, we decided to ride the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway south to Cody, WY.
Scenes from the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway, north of Cody, WY
This was an excellent decision, because this ride, while not quite as spectacular as the Beartooth Pass was still a great ride. The views were tremendous and the highway again was a beautiful to ride. We reached the summit of Dead Indian Pass at 8574 feet where plaques explained how a group of Indians who had been hemmed in by the US Cavalry over the pass. The name came from the fact hat Chief Joseph left a wounded warrior behind and the Cavalrymen killed him in the pass.
The way down the south side of the pass provided views of bright red rocks that seem to be prevalent here. In some places these rocks are called the Chugwater Formation which was laid down about 250 million years ago. The rocks are rich in iron and oxidation has made them bright red. These rocks show up in many areas in Montana, Wyoming, and Utah.
Red rock formation on the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway
At the summit of Dead Indian Pass we could hear a guy riding a motorcycle with straight pipes roaring up the mountain. He roared into the parking area, got of and looked around. Further down the south side I had pulled over on the outside of a long curve to take photos of rock formations when I heard the motorcycle racing down the mountain. It was the same guy on his chopped Victory motorcycle and he was fast. I watched him as he leaned that bike over in the curve. I could see about a finger's width of clearance under the bike when he leaned it over more. The trail of sparks was about thirty feet long and quite spectacular. That moment was one of the best of the day for me. I wish I had the cojones to ride like that sometimes.
The remainder of the ride into Cody, WY, was quite mundane after what we had seen for most of the day. As it was in 2012, room prices were crazy, partly because of the proximity to Yellowstone Park, and because of the large number of riders returning from Sturgis, we ended up paying USD165 for a room that might go for USD70 outside of the high season.
View from the door of our motel room in Cody, WY
Monday, the plan was to ride to Rock Springs, WY, then head west on our way home. Today was just an absolutely incredible ride, one that will stick in my memory for a very long time.
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