This morning we were up early and ready to leave before the temperature reached into the 30s and 40s. Traffic on I-84 was light and moving briskly. The temperature was in the low 20s (71F) and the riding was the most pleasant we have experienced in more than a week. As we moved to the west were were immersed in a thick smoky haze. Apparently there was a large fire near Coos Bay, OR, and it had made its way to the Boise area. However, as we rode south on US95 the haze began to thin out until by the time we reached Jordan Valley it was barely noticeable.
View in Jordan Valley, OR
South of Jordan Valley the highway climber to more than 4000 feet and the haze became visible in the area. Haze like this can have an effect on eyes and lungs. My eyes were sore as we moved south. The temperature was rising but still quite pleasant. We made a roadside stop for a break and a drink of Powerade and could see that we were completely surrounded by the smoky haze. I found a pile of tumbleweeds that had been caught by a fence. I have seen them before but this is the first time I have seen them up close.
Haze from the Coos Bay fire
Haze over the area south of Jordan Valley, OR
Tumbleweeds
Tumbleweeds
This area of eastern Oregon and Nevada and parts of other states is known as the Great Basin. From the highway you can see ridges on both sides. The land itself is a semi desert with the main vegetation being dried grasses. It is a desolate but starkly beautiful landscape. When the temperature is more bearable I really love being here, although I probably wouldn't appreciate the winters.
Great Basin landscapes
We stopped to fuel up in the small village of Mcdermitt, NV, and went for lunch at the small casino there. The woman who was running the bar and restaurant took some time to talk to us. She expressed some real concerns about what was happening in her country. She has a daughter in Boise and wants her to move because of what she called Idaho's 'misogynistic laws. She is deeply concerned about what will happen is the US elects a Republican president and in November. I feel empathy for this woman who may have to live with the consequences of the election. She is 77 years old and still working.
When we left the casino the temperature was again over 100F. Fortunately, we had made most of the day's ride in the cooler temperatures of the morning. This is something that people in cars don't really appreciate as they ride in air conditioned comfort. Travelling by motorcycle is more elemental and riders are much more in contact with their surroundings. It is one of the reasons I find great joy in riding.
Riding in the Great Basin
We stopped about half way to Winnemucca for a rest break and a drink. This was the only shady place in the 73 mile (120 km) distance. The secondary roads in western states such as Montana, Idaho, Oregon and Nevada is 70 miles per hour (115 kph). There are mostly well designed and maintained and maintaining that speed is not a problem. It certainly allows long distances to be covered relatively quickly.
Rest stop
Wildlife is scarce in this country, at least wildlife that can be seen as you ride along. However, this morning I saw a coyote loping along the highway in the ditch. This was the first time I have seen a coyote this close. Except for a few deer, most of the wildlife I have seen on this trip has been roadkill. That is unfortunate.
We arrived in Winnemucca just after noon but couldn't check in to our room until 3:00. That is one of the glitches about leaving early for a day's ride, because you arrive too early to check in to your room and have to find a place to keep cool until you can.
We walked down the street to the local casino for dinner but then took a shuttle to another casino down the street. Nothing remarkable about that except that when the driver found out that we were Canadian, she began to ask about emigrating to Canada, if it was possible just to arrive and look for a job and questions of that nature. I bring this up, because in this one day we met two women who did not seem happy to be in their country. I don't know the motivations of the second woman, but it seems, from this small sample, that they have concerns, being women about their futures here.
So tomorrow we will make it to Reno, stop there for two nights then head on to the next part of our trip. We covered 440 km today and it went very well. More tomorrow.
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