Today is Victoria Day in Canada but here in the US it is just another work day. The big American holiday, Memorial Day, is next Monday so we didn't have to compete with vacationers racing to get home today.
Continuing from last night, the parking lot and our motorcycles were still wet but the sun was making a somewhat desultory appearance, as if it had to be here but didn't really want to be. We packed our motorcycles, and except for Kerry, who wore his raingear so as not to tempt the rain gods again, the rest of us chose to brave the ride without.
The guys had left me behind by this point and as I made my way along I saw another of those whimsical signs that seem to crop up so often. starting out with Kansas St., Washington St., and Oregon St., one would expect the next series of streets to have state names. However, the next street sign read, Lois Lane. Fans of Superman will get the reference, I think.
Further on I stopped at Devil's Churn where I met three friendly ladies who were driving to California. I took their photo with the Devil's Churn in the background and once again headed south where I found the guys waiting at the road which led to Perpetua Point, the highest viewpoint on the Oregon coast. We rode to the top and were rewarded with spectacular views of the coastline for miles to the south. From this height and distance we could still see the waves as they crashed into the rocks and threw spray high into the air.
I'm afraid that I haven't been a great riding companion these past two days. every time I see something spectacular I pull off the highway and shoot so photos or video. It's all going into the blog, but they've had to wait for me quite a few times. I appreciate their patience.
In the early twentieth century, Oregon on had a rather forward looking governor who persuaded the state legislature to keep almost all of Oregon's coastline in public hands. The photos below show the gift that Governor Oswald's foresight over one hundred years ago has given the people of Oregon, the US, and the world.
Slightly further on are the famous Sea Lion Caves but there weren't many sea lions there so we decided to forego the expense of viewing just a few of them and carried on to Florence, OR, where we stopped for a Starbucks coffee, my first in almost a week. Kerry bought a huge deli sandwich at Safeway and we shared it, all the time just chatting.
One of the real pleasures of this trip has been having the opportunity to relax and chat rather than being pressured to get back on the road because we have to make a long distance before we stop for the day. If we feel like stopping we do. If we feel like making some distance, we do that too. This has been a great ride and everyone seems to be getting along extremely well. That being said and knowing the guys, I would expect nothing less.
The young lady who worked at Starbucks impressed us all. She was friendly and outgoing, obviously knew her business, and worked incredibly efficiently. When Jim accidentally gave her two twenty dollar bills that were stuck together, she returned it even though he wouldn't have notice if she hadn't. It was wonderful to see someone who is really excellent at her job and takes pride in it. Safeway is fortunate to have such a terrific employee. I hope they know it.
Riding south I was struck by the abandoned railway tracks that run alongside the highway. To me, rusty railway tracks are a sad thing. I imagine the day when the first train pulled by a steam locomotive ran up the newly laid tracks and the excitement of the people who lived in the towns and villages along the tracks. They had arrived as a community and for decades the rails serviced the needs of these small communities. Steam then diesel locomotives trundled up and down the tracks tacking away loads of lumber ore and other products. Now many of the villages and small towns are shadows of their former selves with abandoned and boarded up building and rusty rails all that is left of that promise so long ago. It is a hard-headed economic decision to abandon these rails, but it is sad nevertheless.
Along the coast here for many miles there are huge sand dunes. How they were formed I have no idea, but they are striking. They back onto beautiful sand beaches and are an outstanding feature in this part of Oregon.
As you approach Coos Bay, OR from the north the Coquille River Bridge can be seen in the distance. On the right side of the highway is a memorial to those who have served in the US Armed Forces since World War II. I have no idea how names are chosen but on one hand it is good to see that people still remember those who have served their country, many of whom made the ultimate sacrifice. On the other hand, and this is not meant to dishonor or disrespect those who are memorialized here, it seems that The United States glories military conflict, while at the same time failing to honour those who have come back from their service, broken in mind and body. As a Canadian, perhaps I shouldn't voice an opinion on this, but in light of recent events in VA hospitals it seems obvious. Build monuments to those who have served but honour their service by taking care of them when they come home and are unable to care for themselves and their families.
The counter guy at Highway 101 H-D in Coos bay, OR, checked the output load and found it to be far lower than it should have been. With some help I removed the seat and the battery and installed the new one. The difference was immediate. The bike started like it did when it was new and I was able to deal with an issue that had been gnawing at me for several weeks now. It was great to be able to do the majority of the work myself, although I had to get Jim to help me put the seat back on.
Kerry has made this trip many times and took us into the little town of Bandon. After stopping downtown and the guys having samples in the candy store, we headed to the lighthouse The town is a beautiful little place and has a spectacular view of the waves crashing into the jetty and spraying high into the air. There are so many places like this along this coast but this place stands out. Not only can you see the seashore at sea level, you can also see it from the cliffs in town as well.
By now it was getting later in the afternoon and we wanted to make it further south. At the town of Port Orford we stopped at another viewpoint. It was hard to miss because someone had painted the words 'OCEAN VIEW' with a large arrow right on the pavement which went up the hill. Guerilla advertising? I don't know, but it was effective.
While we were there I had a conversation with an older lady named Nip Barker. She was enjoying the view and said that she had moved from southern California more than thirty years ago and hasn't regretted that decision once since then. As I was getting ready to leave she wished me safe riding. A very friendly thing for her to do.
One of the clichés of the restaurant industry is the 'greasy spoon' café. It usually indicated a place that has questionable sanitation and poor quality food.. However, on our way through Langlois, OR we saw the real Greasy Spoon Café. Yes, there is such a thing but we regrettably didn't have time to stop and sample its offerings. Had we done so we could either have confirmed the cliché, or dismissed it. Missed opportunities!
Our plan, developed at Port Orford, was to ride to Brookings, OR, just north of the California border but we made the decision to end our riding day at Motel 6 on the Rogue River in Gold Beach, about thirty miles north. So tomorrow morning we'll pack up, do thirty miles, stop and have a Starbucks coffee, then head into California to the Avenue of the Giants, a redwood forest which is apparently incredibly impressive.
The last thing we did was to walk about a kilometre to the Porthole Restaurant for dinner. The food was good but they had about eight types of pie. Jim had peach, Garry chose blueberry and I had pecan. All excellent choices. On the way back the view of the bridge across the Rogue River was outstanding.
Finally, and I thought I'd never say this but I think I've brought Jim over to the Dark Side. He's a Timmy Ho's kind of guy but he has really taken a liking to Starbucks Blonde Roast. Next thing you know he'll have his Starbucks gold card. I've told him that the next time I'm in Victoria I'll ride to Starbucks with him if he rides his Harley. We'll shock those BMW posers when we roll up on loud bikes wearing black leather. I can hardly wait!
Another wet beginning to the day
Almost immediately on leaving the motel we crossed the Yaquina Bay Bridge, one of the most recognizable bridges on Highway 101 and the last major bridge to be built on the highway in Oregon. After stopping for gas in Waldport we continued on south where we passed two cyclists on a tandem bike. A short distance down the highway I pulled over to take photos of the seashore. As I was doing this the cyclists stopped at the same place to take pictures as well. I offered to take their picture and we struck up a conversation. They were Bruce and Karen Beck and they had started their journey in Bellingham and planned to ride south to California, across the southern US, up the east coast with a final destination of Halifax, NS. the have a blog; www.beckstreks.weebly.com and they also have a Facebook page entitled Becks Treks.
Bruce & Karen Beck
More beautiful seashore
Rock formations on the beach
The guys had left me behind by this point and as I made my way along I saw another of those whimsical signs that seem to crop up so often. starting out with Kansas St., Washington St., and Oregon St., one would expect the next series of streets to have state names. However, the next street sign read, Lois Lane. Fans of Superman will get the reference, I think.
Further on I stopped at Devil's Churn where I met three friendly ladies who were driving to California. I took their photo with the Devil's Churn in the background and once again headed south where I found the guys waiting at the road which led to Perpetua Point, the highest viewpoint on the Oregon coast. We rode to the top and were rewarded with spectacular views of the coastline for miles to the south. From this height and distance we could still see the waves as they crashed into the rocks and threw spray high into the air.
The Devil's Churn
View of the coast from Perpetua Point
View from Perpetua Point
I'm afraid that I haven't been a great riding companion these past two days. every time I see something spectacular I pull off the highway and shoot so photos or video. It's all going into the blog, but they've had to wait for me quite a few times. I appreciate their patience.
Why the guys have to wait.
Explosions of water over the rocks.
Waves pounding the rocks
In the early twentieth century, Oregon on had a rather forward looking governor who persuaded the state legislature to keep almost all of Oregon's coastline in public hands. The photos below show the gift that Governor Oswald's foresight over one hundred years ago has given the people of Oregon, the US, and the world.
The ocean meets the cliffs
View from a roadside state park
This being Monday, road crews were back at work doing bridge repairs so I had to wait at one of the bridges while alternating single lane traffic came through. Just as the highway became two lane again, the guys were waiting at a pullout. From this point we could see the Heceta Head Lighthouse, apparently the most photographed lighthouse in the US. I did my best to help it keep that record, although I'm surprised that the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse on the Outer Banks of North Carolina doesn't hold that distinction.
Heceta Head Lighthouse
Heceta Head Lighthouse
Heceta Head Lighthouse
Slightly further on are the famous Sea Lion Caves but there weren't many sea lions there so we decided to forego the expense of viewing just a few of them and carried on to Florence, OR, where we stopped for a Starbucks coffee, my first in almost a week. Kerry bought a huge deli sandwich at Safeway and we shared it, all the time just chatting.
A solitary sea lion near Sea Lion Cave
One of the real pleasures of this trip has been having the opportunity to relax and chat rather than being pressured to get back on the road because we have to make a long distance before we stop for the day. If we feel like stopping we do. If we feel like making some distance, we do that too. This has been a great ride and everyone seems to be getting along extremely well. That being said and knowing the guys, I would expect nothing less.
The young lady who worked at Starbucks impressed us all. She was friendly and outgoing, obviously knew her business, and worked incredibly efficiently. When Jim accidentally gave her two twenty dollar bills that were stuck together, she returned it even though he wouldn't have notice if she hadn't. It was wonderful to see someone who is really excellent at her job and takes pride in it. Safeway is fortunate to have such a terrific employee. I hope they know it.
Riding south I was struck by the abandoned railway tracks that run alongside the highway. To me, rusty railway tracks are a sad thing. I imagine the day when the first train pulled by a steam locomotive ran up the newly laid tracks and the excitement of the people who lived in the towns and villages along the tracks. They had arrived as a community and for decades the rails serviced the needs of these small communities. Steam then diesel locomotives trundled up and down the tracks tacking away loads of lumber ore and other products. Now many of the villages and small towns are shadows of their former selves with abandoned and boarded up building and rusty rails all that is left of that promise so long ago. It is a hard-headed economic decision to abandon these rails, but it is sad nevertheless.
Abandoned rails in Gardiner, OR
Along the coast here for many miles there are huge sand dunes. How they were formed I have no idea, but they are striking. They back onto beautiful sand beaches and are an outstanding feature in this part of Oregon.
Sand dunes north of Coos Bay, OR.
Sand dunes north of Coos Bay, OR.
As you approach Coos Bay, OR from the north the Coquille River Bridge can be seen in the distance. On the right side of the highway is a memorial to those who have served in the US Armed Forces since World War II. I have no idea how names are chosen but on one hand it is good to see that people still remember those who have served their country, many of whom made the ultimate sacrifice. On the other hand, and this is not meant to dishonor or disrespect those who are memorialized here, it seems that The United States glories military conflict, while at the same time failing to honour those who have come back from their service, broken in mind and body. As a Canadian, perhaps I shouldn't voice an opinion on this, but in light of recent events in VA hospitals it seems obvious. Build monuments to those who have served but honour their service by taking care of them when they come home and are unable to care for themselves and their families.
Bridge over the Coquille River, Coos Bay, OR
Roadside Memorial Park near Coos Bay, OR.
Over the past month I have had some concerns about my motorcycle battery. When I try to start my bike it often doesn't seem to have enough power to turn the engine over. I was worried that it might fail and I'd be stuck in the middle of nowhere with a useless battery, so I decided to bite the bullet and spring for a new battery.The counter guy at Highway 101 H-D in Coos bay, OR, checked the output load and found it to be far lower than it should have been. With some help I removed the seat and the battery and installed the new one. The difference was immediate. The bike started like it did when it was new and I was able to deal with an issue that had been gnawing at me for several weeks now. It was great to be able to do the majority of the work myself, although I had to get Jim to help me put the seat back on.
Kerry has made this trip many times and took us into the little town of Bandon. After stopping downtown and the guys having samples in the candy store, we headed to the lighthouse The town is a beautiful little place and has a spectacular view of the waves crashing into the jetty and spraying high into the air. There are so many places like this along this coast but this place stands out. Not only can you see the seashore at sea level, you can also see it from the cliffs in town as well.
Port of Bandon Harbour
Wooden sculpture on the pier at Bando Harbour
Old pilings in Bandon Harbour
Old Town Mall, Bandon, OR
Lighthouse jetty, Bandon, OR
Beach at bandon, OR
Lighthouse jetty at Bandon, Or.
Beach at Bandon, OR
View from the cliffs at Bandon, OR
View from the cliffs at Bandon, OR
View from the cliffs at Bandon, OR
View from the cliffs at Bandon, OR
Jim checks out 'Big Red'.
Why is that Honda in front of the Harleys???
By now it was getting later in the afternoon and we wanted to make it further south. At the town of Port Orford we stopped at another viewpoint. It was hard to miss because someone had painted the words 'OCEAN VIEW' with a large arrow right on the pavement which went up the hill. Guerilla advertising? I don't know, but it was effective.
From the viewpoint, Port Orford, OR
While we were there I had a conversation with an older lady named Nip Barker. She was enjoying the view and said that she had moved from southern California more than thirty years ago and hasn't regretted that decision once since then. As I was getting ready to leave she wished me safe riding. A very friendly thing for her to do.
Nip Barker, Port Orford, OR
One of the clichés of the restaurant industry is the 'greasy spoon' café. It usually indicated a place that has questionable sanitation and poor quality food.. However, on our way through Langlois, OR we saw the real Greasy Spoon Café. Yes, there is such a thing but we regrettably didn't have time to stop and sample its offerings. Had we done so we could either have confirmed the cliché, or dismissed it. Missed opportunities!
Our plan, developed at Port Orford, was to ride to Brookings, OR, just north of the California border but we made the decision to end our riding day at Motel 6 on the Rogue River in Gold Beach, about thirty miles north. So tomorrow morning we'll pack up, do thirty miles, stop and have a Starbucks coffee, then head into California to the Avenue of the Giants, a redwood forest which is apparently incredibly impressive.
The last thing we did was to walk about a kilometre to the Porthole Restaurant for dinner. The food was good but they had about eight types of pie. Jim had peach, Garry chose blueberry and I had pecan. All excellent choices. On the way back the view of the bridge across the Rogue River was outstanding.
The bridge over the Rogue River, Gold Beach, OR
The bridge over the Rogue River, Gold Beach, OR
Finally, and I thought I'd never say this but I think I've brought Jim over to the Dark Side. He's a Timmy Ho's kind of guy but he has really taken a liking to Starbucks Blonde Roast. Next thing you know he'll have his Starbucks gold card. I've told him that the next time I'm in Victoria I'll ride to Starbucks with him if he rides his Harley. We'll shock those BMW posers when we roll up on loud bikes wearing black leather. I can hardly wait!
Hi John, I've enjoyed reading your blog. Your stories and pictures brought back fond memories of our (Kerry and I) numerous trips along that coast. The top of Perpetua Lookout is one my favorites - the view is awesome!!! I'm glad the weather is getting better. Have a fun safe ride.
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